"Sky That's Never Blue"
- Jean Rhys
Grey again, Nova Scotia late November
Grey, a month’s elegy got the expired hardwood fires
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Of October, Smoke grey, the kind of grey
Earnest TV meteorologists explain as
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“Prolonged seasonal low pressure,” a monochrome
Ceiling so persistently low, they, say, it can floor you. Actually.
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It’s a barn-board grey, abandoned wasp nest grey;
The delicate, cupped receptacles of the papery comb
Veined grey, oval or hexagonal, the insides a deeper,
Darker grey, the base mud-daubed underside rafters,
The south side, usually, of a sloping roofline,
Cedar-shakes or sheeted aluminum, the soffit shadows
Mouse grey, whale grey, From Middle English grei or grai,
Borne from Angle-Saxon graeg, farther back
The Dutch grauw and grijs, the German grau,
A modest, monkish grey, cassock grey;
Habit grey, cloister grey, prayer grey. And when
The ocean winders shift and steady– a brighter
Oil paint grey; pine-truck first snow above dogwoods–
A burnished, reddish grey, as in the fervent faces
Of Rembrandt; or a stave of power lines silvered
Blue, an almost translucent snow skin thickened
To ice-grey on culverts, the colour of war
Corpses–nothing at all left of late summer
Streambeds’ green-going-grey, only a starker, bleaker, near
Winter grey, an angry grey, like the grey of Guernica.
Long weeks of sullen evening grey,
The sloe grey of Debussy’s Nocturnes, the darkening
Chords of his cancerous fate: fitful sleep
Grey, indolence grey. “Prufrock” grey? “Ash Wednesday” grey.
Guilt, repentance and sackcloth grey. Early,
The inconspicuous grey of the grey
Flannel suit. And if nirvana is a disinterested grey, that
Grey. Dying old-man whiskered grey, dark slate gravestone grey
The dirty grey of storm clouds building at 20,000 feet,
An approximation of the bony shoulders
Of orphaned girls toiling in the factories
Of Hugo’s soot-cindered Paris, les grisettes, and the guttered
Smiles of syphilitic prostitutes in the dancehalls of Lautrec,
Stifled cries leaked out through the walls a republic
Of greys, feeble gaslight sighs and grunts and moans.
North-Atlantic hegemonic grey, this one, certainly more protracted,
More diffuse, than the moist that swept in one morning, swift
And obliquely, in another November, twenty or so odd
Years ago, a mist that blanketed the Piazza Cavour
In Rimini, home town of one Federico Fellini, where I’d been
Stranded for a week (national rail strike), and where
I watched a man in a grey suit and matching fedora
Appear out of that mist like a lost ghost
And pass slowly in front of Cinema Fulgor and stop to stare
At the empty lobby through the sinuous windows
Of its art deco. For a moment, I was convinced
It was Fellini himself, but then a small child came
Running across the piazza and into the man’s grey
Lanky arms, shouting “Papa! Papa!” and while this reunion
Assuaged my disappointment that the man wasn’t’ feeling Fellini,
It couldn’t have dissolved my utter disgust in discovering
That his favourite bar had become an H&M.
The whole town was closing down for the winter, shutters
Clamped tight on the inns and hotels, the cafes deserted
Except for a few grey-haired men sipping espresso
And grappa at the Bar Masini, the dull rumble of the sea
They ignored rising over the phantom sunbeds, the folded
Parasols stacked like firewood, the faded
Dwarf palms given over to the shoreline birds–
Gulls and plovers, or at least the Adriatic version
Of plovers, long-legged, spindly, needle-beaked–
The mist rising above the façade of the Grand Hotel where,
On the phone, after a dinner of parmesan risotto
And pigeon ragout that had arrived under a cloche
And served no doubt with gloved hands by someone
In the standard grey-wool serge uniform of the day
(Comical pillbox hat replete with chinstrap,
Like an organ-grinder’s monkey would wear), yes, on the phone
In the room where he always stayed, the room
With the best possible view of the sea, Fellini suddenly
Stopped talking, and went impossibly silent, and where, later,
They’d find him on the floor, crumpled, paralyzed, his face gone blank,
Bereft of all colour, a marble-grey, felled and palsied
By stroke from which he’s never recover. He died
Two months later, as if in a scene from his own film,
Rama, that end-of-the-world ecophagy of splendidly grotesque
Vatican nanobots: nuns, priests, bishops, cardinals, all
On roller skates, gliding like drugged models along the catwalk,
Crowned in garish wimples and tiaras, in gowns of multi-mirrored
Lamé, gaudy gold and genital mauve, the camera swooping up, up, high
Into the pallid air above the Roman streets, exhaust
Spewed from Vespas and Fiats. Dissolve to a still, a close-up,
The carcass of a dog, a stray, an old male, run over
And forgotten, left to rot on the Ponte Sant’Angelo,
The clay banks of the river Tiber below, a grey,
Streaked like the treads of a worn tire, or the folds of a brain.
​
***
Sun and Moon, Rooster, Rhomboid
Noon:
Brilliant white cubes, inhabited tesserae. Maybe 200 of them?
Scattered houses, row-less, no semblance of sequence, blue-
Dotted (shutters, open
Or closed), some roofs glinting, silver water
Barrels that read NOBEL.
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Everything rising. Rising terraces of hidden lanes
And rising sun-blanched greenery:
Palm, cedar, cypress, lilac, pine;
All unevenly margined
With walls, stones hand-piled, tiered
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All the way up the mountainside,
One small chapel almost
At the top, another, of course,
At the very top:
Blazing white rhomboid, dome,
Bell-tower & cross; & then--
Domination of blue. More blue.
***
​
Midnight:
The moon climbed & climbed
Dropping clean rags
On the windless village.
That goofy rooster
Took it as a sign--
Started crowing.
Notes that cracked
Cracked the ancient bowl of the sky.
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***
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Byzantine Riprap
“placed solid, by hands . . .
riprap of things . . .”
--Snyder
Cut from Parian quarries a little north of here: mule-dredged sledges of sepia-grey marble
Flagstones: precise mosaic footpath over the mountain & down, Lefkes to Piso Livadi
And the sea, laid by shepherd-peasant slave hands 1100 years ago. Newer, honey-smudged
Rock-enclosure walls either side. Terraced slopes of myrtle, sage, thyme, oregano, olive
Groves, poppies, wild-roses, daisies, eye-blue cornflowers, & small yellow bell-like somethings--
Chamomile? Everywhere, of course, lavender, blitzing six kilometers of thick tough gorse.
Halfway, a tinkling of bells, & then, wait, yes, a little farther along, there they are, pointillist
Sheep, way up, dots on the crest, foraging, loitering, wool-greyish white, sun-on-rocks
That move! Then a cumbrous lizard somehow shimmies out of a tiny crack in the wall, stone
Wearing skin, & stares me down with his barren solitude, stares me past squadrons of ants
Commuting along fissures in the marble headed for work in black sheep-splat, black goat-scat
(Small pebble-like cones), the path sharply rising now, labored breathing, the precipice--
And Naxos in the distance, ancient pirate bays. Closer, the whitewashed lozenges of Prodromos,
Its dry, unwelcoming, poppy-carmined fields. The flush exactitude of flat stones
Thins out: disappointing gravel, stippled-pavement lanes, sad garages hiding a Panda, an Opel,
Two VWs & one rusted-out Jaguar, then the double-arch & twin bells of Agios Ioannis.
On village cobbles now, stretching arms out: touch this white house, that white house, together,
Trimmed in sea-blue: a charming simplicity. Doves whistle somewhere, & a mad rooster
Doesn’t know better than to keep crowing. A miraculous café appears after--how many is that now?--
Seven winding turns? An old man steps, slow-motion, up a pallet stair to join others inside at
Tavli, a game as old as the Byzantine riprap. Smoke, shouts, ouzo. Curses & laughter. I quietly take
A seat in the wings, away from the drama. A boy of about five scoots in. His dyslexic sweatshirt
Reads: Palyboy. It’s his mother who’s served me, it’s she he smothers with kisses, then runs out,
Grabbing one man’s hat from his baldhead on the way. Grandfather? He pays no attention.
He throws the dice, slides a thin, circular stone with two fingers down the board with insouciant
Guidance. He rolls again, slides a second stone along, slowly, the third & fourth now a little
Faster, now another even faster, five, six, nine, ten, eleven. His opponent, playing at a normal pace, is
Transfixed by the speed, the accuracy, the cunning, the outrageous luck. The man’s thick, stone-
Rough fingers become suddenly still, all the pieces magically stacked, in twos & threes: perfect
Black-&-white mosaic on the ash-strewn table.
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***
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“Ya Soumitsa”
Outdoor bar slash café,
In tiny Aliki, postcard
Harbour, s.w. Paros--meaning
Roughly, “Let’s have another”
In the local dialect.
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I was enjoying a second excellent espresso chased
With raki & little homemade, braided cookies
Panos, the owner, had placed on the table on a triangular
White plate with the big blue painted-hand of Horus
And its big blue painted-eye looming in the middle--
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Therefore, I was also enjoying protection
From any evil that might have been skulking
Among the proximate bobbing fishing boats, when a surprising gust
Of the wind no one had noticed suddenly
Drew attention to itself
As a performance artist,
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Due to the way it dared
To cast white spidery seedlings in the air across
The café, as if the café were a morning meadow, or
Some ancient temple-site besieged by rare
Flurries of snow. Dozens hooked
On to my black cotton cardigan,
My whole torso becoming
A breathing, feathery constellation.
One seed lodged itself in a tiny valley
Of the only remaining cookie, & there
I discerned its fine filaments--
Tiny umbrella hairs providing perfect
Drag, so it wouldn’t drift
Too far, & drown in the sea.
At the centre: a single, flea-sized ochre capsule
Containing its entire, rooted, sun-yellow future,
A near-microscopic declaration
Of the mother plant’s eternal task.
Depositing another plate of cookies, Panos
Spotted my sporadic adornment, smiled, & said,
“All the lost souls, I see they have found you.”
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***